Sunday, May 21, 2017

More signs of summer

Besides the temps in the high 80s and the 90's, here are some more signs of summer in Dushanbe:

The markets are full of apricots and I made cobbler to share with some friends for dinner:

People in Dushanbe are eating lots of ice cream (яхмос):
Softserve on Rudaki Blvd
Highschoolers in our apartment courtyard
A mom gives in. Rudaki/Flagpole Park.
The roses are in bloom:
Rudaki/Flagpole Park. I'm guessing these are sisters with their brother.
Rudaki/Flagpole Park
Rudaki/Flagpole Park. Get the little brother to take a family photo.
The  green and gray building in background is one of the first "malls" in the city and a landmark for transit. садбарг means "rose." (The statue is of Ayni (1878-1954), considered the father of Tajik arts and letters.)


 Paddleboating seems like a good idea:
Rudaki/Flagpole Park
Rudaki/Flagpole Park

And we are grateful for the city's fountains (and the country's plentiful supply of water--though one should never take such a thing for granted):
Rudaki/Flagpole Park

Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Baking pies

When a usually very busy new friend told me she wanted to learn how to bake American-style pie, I leapt at the chance to spend an afternoon with her.

I couldn't find disposable pie tins (so she could take the pies home to her family) but at least the store had cake pans, which I was able to cut down. Parchment paper to ease the rolling was another find I was grateful for.
We made an apple pie (the original inspiration from a meal we'd shared back in April), a mixed berry pie, and a fresh strawberry pie.
Special thanks to Lee for doing all the tedious and careful cleaning and sanitizing of the fruit
M and her daughter V (she takes after her dad's grandparents).


Thankfully, there was one more pie which stayed with us so Lee and I could have a piece after dinner tonight.

The afternoon made me think about what kind of fruit is evident in our lives, and about fruit that lasts...

Signs of summer

We had a great spring, but there's no mistaking that summer has now arrived.

The country ladies selling flowers in the underpass near our apartment have peonies!

The trees outside our kitchen window are in full leaf:

The markets are full of strawberries, cherries, and mulberries.

Roses are in bloom all over Dushanbe, including these near the entrance to our courtyard.

The ladies in one of the apartments next door were outside washing their carpets the other day.

And we've had some temps in the 90s--not my favorite. It's a good thing there are other things to love about the season here.

Saturday, May 13, 2017

Holiday trip to Panjikent and Seven Lakes

May 9th was Victory Day, celebrating the 1945 victory that the Soviet Union won over "Hitler and Facism" in “The Great Patriotic War” (WWII). Because of ~ 10 million Soviet military deaths and ~15 million civilian deaths, every family suffered enormous losses, including those in what is now Tajikistan, so it's a very big holiday here. First, a few days in advance, there was an assembly at MGU, including these kids from a related school singing a song from the era with 1945 newsreel footage in the background. (Black and orange--the colors of death and war, I was told).
On the actual day, we got to see what seemed to be the entire town of Panjikent come out for a ceremony honoring the few remaining veterans and laying wreaths at the memorial park.


The timing of the holiday allowed Lee and me to take a three-day trip, from Dushanbe to Panjikent. We made the drizzly ~ 4 1/2-hour drive with an American friend of a friend, on a mountain road through passes and tunnels (improved in the last few years).
Panjikent is a pleasant town on the banks of the Zerafshan River.
We enjoyed meeting new friends of friends, catching up with a Fulbright English Teaching Assistant, seeing the Victory Day celebration, and exploring the ruins of the ancient Soghdian city.
On Tuesday afternoon we connected with a driver and homestay host to go up to Haft Kul or Seven Lakes, in the Fan Mountains. This amazing area gave us glimpses of beautiful mountain-snow fed lakes, landslide devastation, environmental degradation, and village life.
Strip mining for gold; Chinese-operated; payment for their job of paving the M34 highway?
Second Lake (morning) and the mountain road
Our homestay, between Fourth and Fifth Lakes
Fourth Lake, afternoon
Sixth Lake, morning
Village girls near Fifth Lake
At the homestay
It was good to see the lakes in different lights/weathers on Tuesday afternoon and Wednesday morning. We were told they are at a low level now and that to see them in their glory we should return in August when they are full of snow melt.

We drove back to Dushanbe on Wednesday afternoon in a shared taxi with three other Americans and a Dutch tourist. These two photos represent both the sublime and the not-so-great aspects of travel in Tajikistan.
Peaks near one of the tunnels
Traffic jam returning to Dushanbe
 We returned to somewhat of a heat wave (in the 90s) in Dushanbe, and Lee's ankle is still sore, and I had a bout of giardia again (thankfully only 24 hours), so it's pleasant to look back on these refreshing photos.
Fifth Lake, morning




Sunday, May 7, 2017

Airborne—Jumping out of a plane!

Having turned 60, I'd been looking for an opportunity to do something bird-like, and attempts to paraglide in Santa Barbara after celebrating my 55th had been thwarted by weather. But here in Dushanbe an expat friend connected us to an aviation and parachute club at a local technical school...and I got to jump out of a plane today.

After an early start and a long ride outside of Dushanbe, we (along with an eventual total of about dozen jumpers) arrived at a hangar where a quick blood pressure check was part of the process.

Then we did some training to ensure safe footing as we landed (knees bent, feet together).

Next in the training was getting into a harness to get used to its feel and learning its fasteners.

Then we lined up and got our parachutes fitted on us.

They switched my headgear--I'm the tall guy with the white helmet.

Here is our primary instructor who was especially kind to review the information with me in English. Some years ago he had a native speaker of English encourage him to use the language, not just study it--and he's kept practicing. 

The we marched out to the field to join our plane wearing the 20kg (44lb) parachute and reserve chute. There were many repeat jumpers there today, and no one ever said they'd used their reserve chute. It was a warm day and the chutes felt heavy.

Here I'm climbing into our plane; it has been put together with parts from three previous planes (engine from one, fuselage from another...), and was recently given a thorough maintenance overhaul and. My expat (aviation tech) friend showed up as well, and he was happy with the safety checks. No Yelp reviews were available (ha ha), so I relied on those who had confidence in the plane and pilots.


In a couple of minutes, we were up, and circled the small grassy landing strip, and reached our planned 800 meter altitude. With the plane's door propped open, I was the second to exit (via a static line that automatically pulled the chute as you jumped out). I was nearly that largest person jumping, and went early in the queue. This is in order to keep heavier people from falling into lighter (slower falling) people's canopies/chutes. A good plan!  It was pretty easy to jump out, with a dozen people waiting behind me. Every two seconds....

I expected more adenaline. It was fun but not scary. That's me — wearing the white helmet (you may have to zoom in!).

The two minutes of descent went quickly, and the view was glorious. Green hills and a sunny sky. But then I began to see the earth coming up more quickly than before, and it was time to land!

A decent landing. As I was blown somewhat sideways and back during the last few seconds, I sat down after my feet hit, then began to gather my chute to stuff it in a bag and walk back the 200yds or so to the meeting spot.  The terrain was rough, deeply rutted and had knee-high grass. Footing was challenging (remember I had 44lbs of gear with me!). I turned an ankle on one unseen rut, but was able to get back to the group OK.

Then we chatted about our experience, shared pictures with new friends, and watched three other groups jump. 

Walking out with my load back to the parking area, another rugged terrain hike on a weak ankle caused another tweak. Sigh.  It's a bit swollen, apparently but not from the jump!  I've had many sprains from volleyball, and this one isn't too bad.  In a few days (Rest, Ice, Compresses, Elevation--and ibuprofen!) I should be close to normal again.


Work-related travel

This week I took day trips to two cities near Dushanbe, Kulob and Kurganteppa, for some teacher-training seminars at the American Corners there.

I want to post more, but this is a busy time, so here's just a taste of the teaching and the beautiful drive.
Jigsaw reading groups in Kulob
Listening activity in Kurgonteppa
Scenery on the road between Dushanbe and Kulob
Leading the sheep to high pastures for the summer